OP AND POP
ART FORMS
IN FURNISHING
[1966]
OP
is for lovers of cool jazz, mystery,
and maths...
If you're feeling that the art world is an exclusive society―then take a look at Op and Pop art. Take Op first: Remember the Marzine sea-sickness advert? It made your eyes swim. Well, that's Op art. It means optical intrigue. Look at the fabric on the wall, it moves, swings round in circles. Black and white, stark, architectural, clinical, sometimes cold, but always stunning. This fashion makes the most of modern synthetic mass-produced materials; they're hard, tough and shiny. Because of the absence of colour and accent on form, a bunch of flowers, a tray of drinks or a woman's dress becomes more important, interesting. It's a backcloth, so simple that other simple pieces blaze into life and colour.
Op-scene furniture is steel-boned, shiny, black-mac, luxuriously geometric: thin and slick, or fat and opulent. You don't have to furnish an entire room to make it Op art. Much simpler and cheaper to put a bulls-eye cushion on a plain architectural chair, or hang a Marzine-type fabric curtain. Remember though, Op art is a fashion and like fashion it expresses the getting to grips with new techniques, new shapes. A lot will last but much will fade. So, however keen on Op or Pop you are remember to use it in things you like as individual pieces or with things like wallpaper, cushion covers and decorations that you can change.
THE OP ART ROOM
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Above: The cotton wall covering (on left) is from a selection of fabrics at Woollands and costs 17s 6d yd (48'' wide). Picture, Flickering Grid (centre), by Oliver Bevan, 70gns from Grabowski Gallery, 84 Sloane Ave, London SW3. Oxted 6ft settee with low back and arms; here in black PVC with aluminium alloy frame, £84. A 3ft version without arms, upholstered in fabric, costs £39. You can order them up to 10ft long. The Coulsdon chair has a satin-chromed steel frame, fully upholstered in PVC and costs £49 13s 6d.; Coulsdon circular table with satin-chromed steel frame and plate glass top, 30in diameter, costs £47 9s. All by William Plunkett at Woollands. Zebra skin on floor costs between £90-£100, by Joseph Hamliton & Seaton. Accessories: lamp in foreground; base is made of X-Lon, by X-Lon, costs £7 10s; shade in photo-printed plastic costs £5 3s 3d. Mug, 9s 9d; and orange aluminium bowl―a set of three costs 22s 6d. The Op Art cushions in felt cost 30s each. All from Woollands unless otherwise stated.
POP
is for people who see humour in art, and art in everyday objects...
Pop is less awe-inspiring, less esoteric than Op. It's more fun, too. Pop means popular―its roots and its inspiration are in familiar, everyday objects―cigarette packets, national flags, strip cartoons, advertising pictures. As American Pop artist Roy Lichtenstein says, it's the use of commercial art as a subject in painting. (Grandaddy of the movement was American Stuart Davis, who painted 'Lucky Strike' in 1921, a picture based on fragments of a cigarette packet.) Reflecting on the use of such objects the viewer is made to realise the significance of seemingly insignificant things―their actual design, as well as their power to conjure up nostalgic, associated ideas.
It's meant to cheer you up, communicate an idea, make you conscious of the detail in everyday objects. Since 1961, Pop art has had an increasingly pervasive influence on the art world in general―in graphic design, particularly painting and sculpture, as well as house decoration and furniture. As with Op, so with Pop―no one can live with a room full of it. Try it in small doses as wall decoration: like posters, toys; flags, jolly a wooden chair with gaudy colour, or paint a whitewood chest with fairground symbols or military stripes. In short, please yourself. You have an excuse now.
THE POP ART ROOM
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Above: Large chest, hand painted by Dudley Edwards, £39 10s. Small, round, red, white and blue clock, designed by Caroline Ebborn, 18gns. Tiny plain wooden chest by Paul Clark, costs 37s 6d. Large, square clock, with brilliant, purple painted frame designed by Image Three, 15gns. Purple canvas and white wood, folding Director's chair, 6gns; imported from Poland by Goods & Chattels. Blue ladle costs 10s 6d, also from Goods & Chattels. Red and purple Britannia tray cost 7s 6d and is designed by Duncan Fox. Red, white and blue towel, 22in by 42in, designed by Natalie Gibson, costs 12s 6d. Blue bucket chair designed by Royal College of Art. Bright canvas cushion, 32s 6d. All from Woollands.
Red and purple Britannia tray,
designed by Duncan Fox, 1966.
BINDER, EDWARDS & VAUGHAN
[BEV]
The incredible hand-painted chest featured in the Pop Art room above, although solely attributed to Dudley Edwards, is an example of early work created as a partner in the design group Binder, Edwards & Vaughan which had been formed with fellow Bradford Art College graduates Douglas Binder and David Vaughan after the trio had reconnected while living in London. These brightly-coloured chests were among the first applied art pieces created at their Gloucester Avenue studio in Primrose Hill where the BEV style evolved as they began to merge influences from a variety of sources such as the background imagery in Marvel Comic's Dr. Strange drawn by Steve Ditko and the multicoloured painted door fronts of Bradford's Pakistani community―to the streamlined geometry of the Art Deco movement and the decorative art and painting techniques of the fairgrounds which they had frequented as teenage Teddy Boys.
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Above: Binder, Edwards and Vaughan, photographed for a Sunday Times magazine feature in 1966 at their studio in Gloucester Avenue, Primrose Hill, amidst a selection of their hand-painted furniture designs. The original magazine caption read as follows: Apart from tarting up chests of drawers and the odd chair, Douglas Binder, David Vaughan and Dudley Edwards, left to right above, are now branching out into interior design. Recently completed jobs include painted walls in Woolland's 21 Shop, and the chests are available from Woolland, Knightsbridge, SW1., £20 to £30.
The first of these painted chests sold to the photographer David Bailey who lived at 177 Gloucester Avenue opposite the BEV studio, after they had decided to leave one on his doorstep overnight in an inspired moment of self-promotion, which resulted in payment by cheque the following morning...but more importantly, Bailey's bustling home/studio served as the ideal showcase for their work. Shortly afterwards they received an order from photographer Antony Armstrong Jones, otherwise known as Lord Snowdon―husband of Princess Margaret, which generated enough publicity in the national newspapers for more commissions to start rolling in, and before long they were on their way to bigger and better things, starting with a major order for two dozen chests from Woollands of Knightsbridge, which was closely followed by their move into painting interiors, large scale exteriors, and the customisation of cars.
Unfortunately, due to the nature of the media they specialised in, tangible examples of the most exceptional work from their two-year output as a design group no longer exist...other than the photographs and film footage which documented it. But although the cars and various facades have long since been redecorated, I can't help but wonder if any of the painted furniture has survived...I'd like to think that there's more than one psychedelic BEV designed piece out there somewhere. I've checked the inventory of the late Lord Snowdon's estate which sold at Christie's in 2020, but the aforementioned item wasn't listed amongst the objects for sale.
However, after some further research I've discovered that his son David Linley established a furniture-making business in the early 1980s, now approaching its fortieth year, and he appears to have had a genuine love of furniture design since childhood, ignited by his father's taste, as seen in this quote from an interview in Vanity Fair (2017) “My father’s rooms, as a child, were a very exciting place to be,” David says, “not only because of the beautiful models who were coming to be photographed for Vogue or The Sunday Times but also because of the very avant-garde furniture that he had made.” So perhaps the BEV chest of drawers is still in the family's possession! I've also scoured through images of Bailey's Victorian terrace house on Primrose Hill as it looked in late 1968/early 1969, but to no avail, apparently he was apt to change the decor regularly as new inspiration hit, and judging by the photos from this period, 'Pop Furniture' was out!
DANDIE FASHIONS
BOUTIQUE
The facade and interior of Tara Browne's and John Crittle's Dandie Fashions Boutique, at 161 Kings Road, Chelsea, by Binder, Edwards & Vaughan in November, 1966, around a month before the shop opened. The psychedelic fascia area inspired by Steve Ditko's Dr.Strange artwork was designed and painted by Dudley Edwards, the Art Deco influenced entrance and ground level areas were created by Douglas Binder.
On the left and right, fashion sketches by the acclaimed designer Karl Lagerfeld, and in the centre, Dandie Fashions boutique by Binder, Edwards & Vaughan as it appeared in Nova, April 1967. The designs are clearly influenced by the facade created by BEV, the sketch on the left has a magazine tear sheet attached featuring the shop's fascia, and just seen on the bottom right sketch is a piece of a tear sheet showing the entrance to the shop. I spotted these sketches back in 2019 when both WWD and Vogue announced that a treasure trove of 125 of the recently deceased designer's sketches dating back to the early 1960s were to be offered for auction by Urban Culture. The sketches had been held in the archive of the House of Tiziani, the Italian fashion house which Lagerfeld had worked with for several years throughout the sixties while also freelancing for many others during this period, including the French fashion house Chloé, which he took sole creative control of in 1966.
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On the right, a close-up of the entrance to Dandie Fashions boutique created by Binder, Edwards & Vaughan in 1966. And on the left, a sequinned sheath dress by Karl Lagerfeld, worked with Art Deco inspired psychedelic patterns in pink and purple. This incredible dress originated from the personal collection of the wondrous Anna Piaggi, legendary Italian fashion journalist, editor and style icon, and yet it sold at Christie's 'Fashion through the Ages' auction for a mere £125 in December 2010...even though it had been estimated between £500-£1000. The dress is described as dating from the 1970s on the auction website..but it is evidently based on the same sketch which was inspired by BEV's original 1960s design. I've discovered two more plastic sequinned dresses featuring the same Art Deco/Dandie Fashions design by Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé, which are held in The MET, one is dated 1967, the other 1968 but they're clearly from the same collection. In moments like these I really miss Freya Erickson's Ciao Vogue, which sadly, is now defunct, however, I have noticed that the name and website appear to be in use by someone else. What a wonderful resource Ciao Vogue/Youthquakers was whenever you needed to accurately date a collection via vintage Vogues 1965-1975, although it no longer exists, I still see her scans all over the internet and on other people's social media accounts every other day, so I bet I'm not the only one who misses that website and blog! Freya can now be found at Sweeter Than Oats, taking old recipes and modernising them for the plant-based world.
OUR BUSINESS IS FUN
[1975]
Above, some screenshots from a filmic encounter with Fred Fowle, otherwise known as Futuristic Fred, Britain's most revered fairground artist. Captured at work decorating a ride in his studio in Streatham, London, in 1975 by documentary maker Michael Whyte. Fred Fowle was extremely helpful to the newly formed BEV design group, who had sought him out after they discovered that he was responsible for designing and painting almost all of the fairground art in the UK, and advised them on fairground art painting techniques.
TARA BROWNE'S
AC COBRA
Dudley Edwards and fellow artist Gary White working on the customisation of Tara Browne's AC Shelby Cobra in 1966. Gary White (left) was also a member of the Binder, Edwards & Vaughan design group, and as a trained sign-painter and coach-painter his role was to assist in executing the actual paintwork. August, 1966.
ART ON WHEELS
[1966]
Fantastic footage of Binder, Edwards & Vaughan at work, and examples of some of the cars they customised can be viewed in this Pathé Newsreel Film, including a 1960 Buick Convertible, and Tara Browne's AC Shelby Cobra which was exhibited at The Robert Fraser Art Gallery in Mayfair in September 1966.
Left to Right: Douglas Binder, David Vaughan, Dudley Edwards and assistant Gary Whyte of The BEV Design Collective photographed with Tara Browne's AC Shelby Cobra, 1966.
L.S.D.E.V
THE TARA BROWNE ART CAR
BY DUDLEY EDWARDS
[2021]
Earlier this year AVA Classics presented the L.S.D.E.V, inspired by The Right Honorable Tara Browne’s AC Cobra which was customised by the BEV Design Group in August 1966. This fully electric replica of the original, by AVA Electrifi at Powerscourt House, Enniskerry, in Wicklow, Ireland, which is not too far from Luggala, once the home of the Guinness heir Tara Browne, has been hand painted by Dudley Edwards.
IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
All Op and Pop Art Forms in Furnishing content scanned and transcribed by Sweet Jane from House Beautiful and Better Homes, January 1966. Op Room photograph by David Swann. Pop Room photograph by Michael Boys. Binder, Edwards & Vaughan images scanned from Electrical Banana, Masters of Psychedelic Art by Norman Hathaway and Dan Nadel [Damiani]. Nova, April 1st 1967; and I Read the News Today, Oh Boy: The short and gilded life of Tara Browne, the man who inspired The Beatles' greatest song, by Paul Howard (Picador). View 'Our Business is Fun (1975) a filmic encounter with fairground artist Fred Fowle, and discover more about Fairground Artwork via the Fairground Heritage Trust. View Binder, Edwards & Vaughan's mural for Woollands, in my previous post about the 21 Shop. Watch the trailer for Black On the Canvas, a documentary film about the life and times of BEV artist David Vaughan. And lastly, Take a look inside David Bailey's London Home (1969).
