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Harmony presents the Twiggy book of Knitting Machine Patterns 1970

March 26, 2013, 8:01 am
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All images scanned by Sweet Jane from the Twiggy Book of Knitting Machine Patterns published in 1970. Which is a 24 page catalogue consisting of knitting patterns with accompanying photographs for 11 outfits. All photographs of Twiggy by Justin de Villeneuve.
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Vintage Advert: Dandy Fashion - Cavalli Shoes - 1969

March 28, 2013, 6:08 am
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                                             THE IMMANENCE OF THE PAST

Reminiscence of spats gone very new. Ankle-high shoes with laced uppers of brown-and-beige mottled toadskin, vamps of black patent or brown aniline calf. Handmade by Cavalli of Bologna, 30gns; to order from Russell & Bromley, New Bond Street W1.




                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS

Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from QUEEN magazine 19 March 1969. Photograph by John Vaughan.
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Vanity Fair - February 1965

March 30, 2013, 8:06 am
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Head over heels in love with prints: paisley in pink is a clinging dress in Tricel jersey with headband and stockings to match; paisley in blue is a loose sweater topping a slim skirt, headscarf and stockings to match. All by Martha Hill. Photograph by Roy Round.




                                                              IMAGE CREDITS

                        Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Vanity Fair February 1965 Vol.18  No.8
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Queen Magazine 1968: Ossie Clark - Mary Quant

April 2, 2013, 4:31 am
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Wool crepe dress with finely-tucked top, gathered skirt and full-cuffed long sleeves by Ossie Clark at Martin Law; 12gns at Dickens & Jones, Regent Street, W1. Lacey stretch knee-socks by Morley; 5s 6d at Fenwick, Bond Street, W1.










Grey wool dress with white stitching, by Mary Quant's Ginger Group; £7 19s 6d at Galeries Lafayette, Regent Street, W1. Matching grey hat with white stitching; £2 19s 6d at Bazaar branches. White daisy tights; 19s 11d at Bazaar branches. Brown and white punched shoes with cut-out sides, by Andrea; 10½ gns at Footnote, Symons Street, SW3.





 
Dress by Hildebrand; £12 19s 6d at Way In, Hans Cresent, SW1. Socks by Morley; 5s 6d at Fenwick, Bond Street, W1. Shoes; at Footnote, Symons Street, SW1. Illustration: green, white and puce suit, green blouse, by Matita; 33gns at Harvey Nicholls SW1.





                                                               IMAGE CREDITS

All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from QUEEN  27 March 1968. Illustrations by Barry Zaid, Photographs by Patrick Hunt.
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PLEXUS: June 1970 - Cover Illustration by Graham Rogers

April 10, 2013, 6:57 am
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                                                                LETTRE DE LONDRES
                                                          




                                                             
                                                                  NEW YORK SECRET!




                                                   IMAGE CREDITS

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Plexus No.36 June 1970, Cover illustration by Graham Rogers, additional illustrations by Wojtek Siudmak. 
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Dandy Fashion: Coats by Le Gardien - Autumn/Winter 1970

April 12, 2013, 4:10 am
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                                                                 IMAGE CREDITS

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from A Century of Fashion by Francois Baudot. Coats by Le Gardien Autumn/Winter 1970. Photograph by Oliviero Toscani.
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Fine Feathers For Night Birds: Pattie Boyd - Rave Magazine 1964

April 13, 2013, 10:56 am
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August. Warm evenings. Outdoor parties. Barbecues. And the time when nightbirds come into their own! It doesn't really matter what you wear. Anything goes. But Beatle girl Patti Boyd shows you how you can be comfortably stunning. So come on...IT'S PARTY TIME!


RIGHT: The hipster pants are by Pentasport with fly front fastening and cost about £1 15s. The Prison bar shirt has contrasting pastel and white stripes and there's also a knockout black and white combination. By Feminella it costs £2 2s.


LEFT: Sugar pink and white Dollyrocker from Sambo, the pink on the stripes which also frills the neckline, matches up to the yoke. £3 3s.


LEFT: Pale pink blouse in a washable crepe spun fabric. It has a puritan collar and raised squares on the bodice of contrast stitching. By Majestic of New York. It sells at £4 9s. 6d.  The skirt is a deep plum colour, with an unpressed front pleat and angle pockets, is in a washable cotton corduroy and also sells at £4 9s. 6d. by Majestic again.  RIGHT: Dress with a matching headscarf by Marlborough in navy and blue cotton with a small motif and a double frill at the hem. Price is around £5 5s. The dress is also available in a full-length version on a slightly paler background.It has an even more delicate design.



LEFT: Finely quilted skirt with matching headscarf. By Estrava, it is available in three different colour combinations and costs £8 8s. The pale blue yoked blouse is by Feminella and costs £2 2s.  RIGHT: Light wool tartan skirt with a matching  sleeveless bolero. Underneath, is a long sleeved shirt with deep cuffs and a rounded peter pan collar. The three piece costs  about  £8 8s.. By Slimma.



                                                          IMAGE CREDITS

        All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE Magazine Issue No. 7 August 1964
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Frisco and Lorenzo Wong and Wildman Michael Chow by Peter Blake 1968

April 16, 2013, 8:29 am
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Peter Blake's portrait of restaurateur Michael Chow, which was commissioned for the interior of MrChow's, the Knightsbridge restaurant that celebrated London's melting pot of internationalism in the '60s. Chow is depicted sitting between two wrestlers, namely Frisco and Lorenzo Wong, which was a play on the fact that the restaurant's concept was to introduce authentic Beijing cuisine to the British public by combining it with elegant european style service - therefore, the food was cooked by Chinese chefs and served by Italian waiters with a menu that the British could understand, in an extremely chic environment. The combination of all these elements has continued to contribute to the establishment's success since it first opened it's doors on St. Valentines Day 1968. It instantly became a mecca for celebrity diners, such as  The Rolling Stones, The Beatles, Federico Fellini and Jeanne Moreau. The walls, decorated not only by Blake's portrait of the owner but also by the original works of many more notable artists like David Hockney, Allen Jones and Jim Dine etc, several of which were initially paid for with an ample amount of meals at the premises..definitely an offer that any starving artist couldn't refuse! In the true spirit of entrepreneurialism, he recognised exactly the right moment to expand his business, so the essence of Mr Chow's success in swinging London, eventually transported another version of itself to the next hotspot on the planet, which in 1974 was Beverly Hills, and along with it came a new host of celebrity diners such as Ingrid Bergman and Ava Gardner. In 1979 the business expanded yet again, this time to Midtown New York, once more the establishment was frequented by well known local artists and musicians, Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Robert Mapplethorpe were regulars, it was also the place in which John Lennon was to have his last meal before the fateful events which transpired later that evening in december of 1980. And in the future, the launch of  three more Mr Chow restaurants in equally prime locations would follow suit.





Michael Chow on his wedding day with his new bride Grace Coddington - Grace is wearing an apple green devore silk velvet dress, appliqued with wild rose, scalloped below the knee with a daisy chain belt of brown and cream suede around the hips - designed by Laura Jamieson of The Sweet Shop,  29 Blantyre Street, Chelsea S.W. 10 (1969).





Michael Chow however, is much more than a restaurateur, he is a man of many achievements and also quite the dandy. Born in Shanghai in 1939, the son of extremely talented, wealthy parents, his mother an heiress who's family had made their fortune as tea merchants and his father Zhou Xinfang, was the country's most famous actor of his generation and a leading figure at the Peking Opera.  He was sent to Britain to be educated at the tender age of 13, where he was immediately dispatched to Wenlock Edge boarding school in Shropshire. After an understandably difficult transitional period, he eventually found his way, quickly realising that aesthetics could play an important part in shaping his future and how he wanted to be perceived. And so, he developed a unique, slightly eccentric but very stylish look which he felt helped him to bridge the cultural divide while still remaining intrinsically faithful to his Chinese heritage. Upon leaving Wenlock Edge, he enrolled as a student at St Martins School of Art, immersing himself in London's Nightlife in his free time. Chow also went on to study architecture, which he  put to good use when designing his various restaurants, he spent a period of time working for the Robert Fraser Art Gallery, and  later opened a hair salon 'Smith and Hawes' in Sloane Avenue with his business partner Robin Sutherland, which they subsequently sold to Leonard of Grosvenor Square, it then became known as 'Leonard and Twiggy'. Amidst all of this, he also managed to find the time to fall in love and marry on more than one occasion, became a renowned art collector and to date, following in his father's footstep's, has also appeared in approximately 18 films, some of the best known from this period are actually on my personal favourites list:  Modesty Blaise (1966) - Weng; You Only Live Twice (1967) - Spectre #4 alongside his sister Bond Girl actress Tsai Chin;  The Touchables (1968) - Denzil; and Joanna (1968) - Lefty.  Sadly, Michael was never again to see his parents or his brothers who had remained in China during the cultural revolution, with tragic results. But it is obvious that his life and his career are a testament and celebration of all that was magnificent about them and his country of origin.




                                                            IMAGE CREDITS

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Radical Rags - Fashions Of The Sixties by Joel Lobenthal, Original  Artwork by Peter Blake courtesy of the private collection of Michael Chow. Photograph of Grace Coddington and Michael Chow scanned from Grace - A memoir, photograph by Barry Lategan 1969.



                                                                      LINKS


MR CHOW - London, Beverly Hills, NYC 57th Street, NYC Tribeca, Miami, Malibu can be found here.

One of my previous posts about the artist Peter Blake can be found here.

Epicentre of Creativity Chelsea - World's End Chelsea SW 10 in the 1960s - a tribute page dedicated to this area, created by Laura Jamieson of The Sweet Shop 28 Blantyre Street can be found here.

The Official Website of Zhou Xinfang can be found here.

Further information about Michael Chow's sister, the actress known as Tsai Chin can be found here.


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Dandy Fashion: The Man Who Always Peaked Too Soon - Illustrated by Tom Wolfe 1976

April 18, 2013, 6:32 am
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                                                        IMAGE CREDITS

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Mauve Gloves & Madmen, Clutter & Vine by Tom Wolfe 1976. All Illustrations by the author.




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John Kloss - Geometric Pop Design 1966

April 21, 2013, 9:34 am
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Some really great examples of John Kloss's geometric inspired designs, I've put this post together from two separate publications which featured his work, as it was evident that both photographs originated from the same photo shoot by Henry Grossman. They were taken in the designer's apartment in May 1966, the canvas in the background is by pop artist Robert Indiana, a friend of Kloss's who, like so many other creative types was also a resident at the Coenties Slip building in Lower Manhattan at the time. Kloss had originally studied architecture in his native city of Detroit before moving to New York, he then turned his attention towards fashion design. After graduating from the Traphagen School of Fashion he moved to Paris where he  apprenticed with couturier Bob Bugnand (1957-58) and also with Serge Matta. In 1959 he turned down an offer to work with the long established firm of Nina Ricci, opting instead to design with Lisa Fonssagrieves, the former top fashion model and wife of the photographer Irving Penn, who had launched her own design label a couple of years earlier. He eventually established his own successful business in the early 1960s, the influence of the pop art movement from this period abounded in his work to great effect, so much so, that when Yves Saint Laurent launched his Mondrian inspired collection in 1965, the New York Times claimed that Kloss had achieved the same effect two years previously. Kloss also specialized in lingerie design for which he received two Coty American Fashion Critics Awards in 1971 and 1974. 




Behold the latest in underwear, all stylish and pretty with outer-wear flair. This new lingerie is the work of designers in the ready-to-wear field who are no longer content to stick to what shows. Nor are their effects intended necessarily to be worn only under their own designs but rather to be a stylish extension of their personal point of view. Shown here with a Robert Indiana painting are designer John Kloss's off-beat Romper-slip (Cira $16) and equally geometric dress ($135).




                                             John Kloss dress ($135) and matching lingerie.





                                                             IMAGE CREDITS

Images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Radical Rags Fashions Of The Sixties by Joel Lobenthal and LIFE Magazine may 6th 1966. Photographs by Henry Grossman. Models Ulla Bomser and Colleen Corby.


                                                                       LINKS


A John Kloss dress worn by fashion journalist Marit Allen which was featured in British Vogue  May 1966 can be found in the V&A collection here.
The Metropolitan Museum also have a wonderful selection of his work from this period in their archive which can be found here.
A biography of the artist Robert Indiana can be found here.


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Gear Guide 1967... Who's Who in Carnaby Street & Kings Road etc.

April 27, 2013, 6:50 am
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To those of you who have gazed longingly at this cover in various 1960s fashion source books over the years or for anyone who eventually found a tattered copy of it listed on ebay (usually for sale at an exorbitant price) only to have it snatched away from your virtual grasp by another bidder seconds before the auction ended, you'll be happy to know that those days are well and truly over!  Gear Guide: a hip-pocket Guide to Britain's Swinging Fashion Scene originally published in May 1967 is currently back on the book shelves, lovingly restored to it's former glory and available at an extremely reasonable cost thanks to Old House Books who have recently republished it. The title accurately describes the contents - it is a concise guide to the most notable shops around at this point in time, quite similar in many respects to Millicent Bultitude's GetDressed which was published a year earlier, as both books were a response to the burgeoning boutique scene which had emerged in London throughout the decade. However, while  'Get Dressed' covers an array of shops from various locations around the city, the Gear Guide narrows it down considerably, focusing the attention on Carnaby Street and Soho, the area where the new fashion scene originated and also on the King's Road which by 1967 had become an equally strong contender in it's own right.








The book consists of 72 pages plus folded endpapers, and is interspersed throughout with some great illustrations, photographs and maps, there is also an informative introductory chapter which describes in detail how the boutique trend initially began and developed. It covers all of the John Stephen shops, as well as Gear Boutique, Bazaar, Donis, Dandie Fashions, I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, Top Gear and Countdown, Just Men, Lady Jane, Granny Takes a Trip, Foale & Tuffin and Simon Shop etc plus one or two others that I wasn't previously aware of such as Hat Gear (Men and Girls) 12 Ganton Street. It also features 4.30 (Girls Boutique) run by Carol Derry located at 430 King's Road which apart from a brief mention in Get Dressed and The Young Meteors by Jonathan Aitken is still a fairly unfamiliar one to me, it sounds really interesting but seems to have been quite short lived as most of these boutiques were and the premises would soon become the location for Michael Rainey's Hung On You (1967-1969) and thereafter Tommy Roberts' Mr Freedom outlet (1969-1970). The closing chapters discuss the current fashion trends, noting that although the idea of 'functionalism' was quite strong with an emphasis on simplified mass produced designs in disposable materials, 'Revivalism' was equally prominent, it also looks towards possible future fashion trends. So, all in all, a very worthwhile acquisition and a unique insight into boutique culture from this period. The Gear Guide can be ordered directly from the publisher here.




I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet 15 Fouberts Place.




















                                   * The original back cover of Gear Guide published in 1967.




                                                              IMAGE CREDITS

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Gear Guide 1967 by David Johnson and Roger Dunkley, Drawings and design by Julia Stone, Photographs by Bob Baker, published by Old House *except for the original back cover of Gear Guide which was scanned from Boutique a 60s Cultural Phenomenon by Marnie Fogg.


                                                                         LINKS
                            Gear Guide 1967 is also available for sale online through Amazon here.
                   The entire catalogue of Old House Books can be found on the publishers website here.
                  Some of my previous post about the British Boutique scene, including information about  
                                          Get Dressed by Milicent Bultitude can be found here.
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Plexus: Issue No.30 December 1969

May 14, 2013, 8:01 am
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                                                            IMAGE CREDITS

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Plexus No.30 December 1969. Cover illustration by Bonneville, additional illustrations by Graham Rogers.




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Vintage Illustration: Milton Glaser 1971

May 16, 2013, 7:04 am
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Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art January 1/1971 B 3149 E.     Illustration by  Milton Glaser.  (Note: the scan didn't quite pick up the colour, in reality the lightest area is actually a metallic silver).
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Beauty Goes Out On A Decorative Limb - 1966

May 18, 2013, 8:56 am
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The beauty business is going out on a limb these days. Cosmetic firms, rushing to fill the empty spaces caused by the hike in skirt lengths, are providing products that dramatize and prettify legs. More challenging is the painting process, here a girl not only has to be handy with a brush but also limber enough to pull the leg up into working position-or run the risk of painting everything upside down. For sometime now, adventurous girls have been decorating their legs all on their own, with rouge and eyebrow pencils. Such rudimentary approaches are replaced now by more sophisticated procedures. Basic to the new beauty in leg make-up, a base similar to that used on the face, which not only covers blemishes but can be shaded to create shapelier contours. From here on, things get giddier. Revlon sells a kit selling colours and brushes and also distributes sketches made by Joe Eula who designed the butterflies below. Max Factor suggests painting on an eye to match your own: Faberge promotes Western brand marks; Viviane Woodard proposes drawing a favourite hobby; and Estée Lauder likes to blaze a comet trail with iridescent beauty marks.




               Butterflies (above) are painted over make-up base . Base $5 and kit $6.50 are from Revlon.  




            Paste on decals (above) suggest a Betty Boop face. Decals cost $ 3 and $5 at Michel Kazan.




Well turned leg is entwined by Joe Eula's snake, a colourful companion to the silver dress by Betsey Johnson $35. The make-up base and paints don't rub off, are soap and water soluble, so it will all come out in the wash.




                                                            IMAGE CREDITS

All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE magazine May 1966. Photographs by Milton H. Greene.
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Vintage Advertisement: Ace Clothing Poster - Eiiche Hasegawa 1971

May 21, 2013, 5:22 am
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                                   All CLOTHING FOR ENJOYMENT ACE MEN'S WEARING!

This is a full page advert by a Japanese artist named Eiiche Hasegawa which featured in the January issue of Gebrauchsgraphik International Art magazine from 1971. It was a prize-winning poster design in the 18th annual exhibition of the Japan Advertisement Artist's Club Tokyo. Unfortunately apart from the name credit there wasn't any other information about the artist and so far I haven't been able to track down anything. Fantastic work though, I like the mix of collage and graphics...and I'd be quite surprised if there isn't a psychedelic colour version of it out there somewhere waiting to be found.







                                                            IMAGE CREDITS

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art  January 1/1971. Poster design by Eiiche Hasegawa.
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Black & White Magic in Courtelle 1969

May 24, 2013, 8:22 am
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                                      BLACK & WHITE MAGIC IN COURTELLE

Checked, striped or pure geometry, black and white has magic. And it's all to your good when it's made up this dazzlingly by Berkertex. In three different kinds of Courtelle jersey. All of them soft and comfortable to wear. Talented at keeping their shape. At washing. Most of all, at bewitching all onlookers. So select your potion and get weaving with the spells.



Above left; Striped dress in Courtelle Neospun jersey by Berkertex. Style 90331. Sizes 10-16. About £9.15s. Above top right; Checked Courtelle bonded raschel dress by Berkertex. Style 90061. Sizes 10-16. About £9 15. Above bottom right; Courtelle printed single jersey dress by Berkertex. Style 90231. Sizes 12-20. About £11. 10.

                                                     


                                                              IMAGE CREDITS
  Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Flair magazine October 1969. Artist uncredited.
      

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Hot Pants 1971

May 26, 2013, 8:26 am
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                             AN IMPROBABLE SKIMPY FASHION FAD ARRIVES IN MIDWINTER


They're called Hot Pants, Short Shorts, Cool Pants, or simply Les Shorts - and in no time they have captured the fashion scene. Augmented by tights or body stockings and boots, hot pants are everywhere, winter winds or not. In Paris, London and New York, department stores can't stock them fast enough. And their eager acceptance by designers from the smallest boutique to the highest couture means that hot pants will be around for a while. "they are the sort of fad" said a European fashion observer "that topples institutions".




                    At Castel's new Le Fayer bistro, Kirsten Gille from Denmark tries out possibly
                                     the shortest shorts in Paris from a boutique called Beige.


                         In London, Elaine Taylor wife of actor Christopher Plummer, perches on
                                   their new circular tub in Mr Freedom's satin mini-overalls.


                        Comparing photos, (right) one Parisienne wears a knitted number from
                            Dorothée Bis while her friend has on velvet shorts from Fousta.



                             Hot pants could mean chilblains while pub crawling in frigid London,
                                  but Jill Offwood covers her satin shorts with a shaggy maxi.



                             London actress Alexandra Marishka finds a doorstep warm enough for
                             her Mary Quant jersey shorts - if she sits on her Chinese Wolf coat.
             



                                                               IMAGE CREDITS

All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Life Magazine January 29th 1971. Photographs by Enrico Sarsini.
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Vintage Advert: Gangsters by Valstar 1967

May 29, 2013, 7:14 am
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A fantastic full page illustrated print ad from the first issue of Intro magazine 1967, the actual size measures 27.5 cm  x 44 cm.


 

                                                 Get in on Gangsters by Valstar

Dead pretty. Rave-up colours. Canvas, denim, double texture riding macs, You name it, Gangsters have it. Uptown styles, downtown prices. Get it on Gangsters at your nearest store now. Left: Henchman about £9. 9. 0  Right: Cover-up about £6. 19s. 6.





                                                              IMAGE CREDITS
      Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Intro Magazine Issue No. 1 September 23 rd 1967. Artist uncredited.



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The Name is the Game: Rudi Gernreich 1968

June 1, 2013, 4:56 am
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                                                          The Name Is the Game 

Once, fashionable ladies kept their dressmakers' names secret but now they wear them on their heads, backs, and even toes. In the three outfits above - that photographer Bill Bell designed as props for an upcoming avant-garde movie called Recess - the name has become an integral part of the costume. The girl at left in Rudi Gernreich's jersey tunic and tights ($78) dangles scarf on which his name stands out in red. Adolfo's sailor beret ($65) bears his name on the band, and less anyone fail to get the message, the evening coat ($270) is imprinted with B.H Wragge's  name no less than 650 times.






Girl above wears two yards of silk scarf almost covered with four-inch block letters spelling Chester Weinberg's first name ($28).






Scarf, draped gypsy-fashion on a girl's head (Glentex $12) contrasts designer's name, Rudi Gernreich, with the no-sense-making letters in the rest of the print pattern.





                                                   
                                                             IMAGE CREDITS

Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE magazine September 13th 1968. Photographs by Bill Bell.


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The Maxi Look from Biba 1970

June 6, 2013, 11:45 am
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                           A la porte de L'Amirauté , un maxi-manteau en crepe de chine saumon,
                                avec un pantalon assorti from Biba, 124 Kensington High Street.









                 Deux maxi-robes en satin crème et saumon from Biba, 124 Kensington High Street.

                 



                                                              IMAGE CREDITS

All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Jours De France, 18 Aout 1970. Article by Jean-Francois Bergery, photographs by Luc Fournol.




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