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Rave Fashion For Valentine's Day: Clothes He'll Love You In -1968

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Make the boys love you this Valentine's Day by wearing gear that'll really make them notice you! Plus your RAVE "Love Me!" sticker of course! Here's RAVE fashion girl Lee's own choice of stunning outfits guaranteed to bring you lots of cards and kisses on The Day, and every other day!  They're modelled by our new RAVE Girl Of The Year, Janine Gilbey, and our RAVE Girl '67, Joan Hinton!


Dare him to notice you in this fascinating two-piece in palest silky green, with flowery bridge front, worn here by Joan. From Angela at London Town, 7 gns. Orange leather shoes with rosette trimming by Elliots, 5 gns. Clumps of orange beads for earrings, by Adrien Mann.



 A gay, "boo-boo-be-doo" style straight out of the twenties that'll make any boy smile! The dress is in white with delicate pink and green rosebud print, by Feminella, 8 gns., and the hat, with cheeky wide band, is by Edward Mann, 39s 11d. Flesh tone leather shoes with bow fronts by Manfield, 69s 11d.



He'll love you in soft, clinging jersey, like these pretty twosome. The pink shirt dress with white daisy pattern modelled by Janine is by Rhona Roy, 7 gns., teamed with black patent shoes with satin rosette fronts by Elliots, 6 gns. The cute sunshine yellow with white trimming is also by Rhona Roy, 7 gns., with black patent shoes by Dolcis, 79s. 11d. White stockings by Morley, 10s. 6d.


A sweet, lost look to catch a boy's heart. The dress is made of calico with ornate, liberty printed yoke and cuffs. By John Marks, £5 19s. 6d. Beige, pearlised shoes by Elliots, £6 19s. 6d.



Boys go crazy over checks! Well, they will if you wear this blue and red, criss-cross patterned dress with wide white kipper tie and collar by Radley, 69s. 11d., with a frothy, fun cloche hat by Edward Mann, 39s. 11d. The sling-back shoes are by Manfield, 69s 11d. The culotte dress is in red tablecloth check, by John Marks, 8 gns. Black patent shoes edged in grey by Roland Keith, 99s. 11d. Red and gold watch by Old England Watches, £5 9s. 6d.



Making the man line feminine, a pin-striped linen culotte suit by Lee Cecil, 6½ gns., with added interest from a frilly lace jabot blouse by Feminella, £3 10s. Hat by Edward Mann, 49s. 11d. Black patent bar shoes by Dolcis, 89s. 11d. Large toff ring in gilt with blue stones by Adrien Mann, 10s. 6d.


                                                            IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine February 1968. Photographer uncredited.
   

News From Baby Doll - 1967

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She's no sleeping doll! Her eyes are always wide, WIDE open...to the latest products, craziest ideas, newest colours ❀ Wear yellow lipstick, like a kiss of the sun ❀ Fringe-frame those pretty peepers with blue mascara ❀ And remember, Lightening is striking...on almost anyone! ❀ Space-age cosmetics ❀ Earthly prices. Blasting off at most Woolworths, daily.






                                                                 IMAGE CREDIT
                            Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Petticoat/Trend 15th September 1967.


Yes. We Have No Suspenders. Pretty Polly-1967

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Pretty Polly's unique new Hold-Up stockings don't need any. Instead of nobbly suspenders, Hold-Ups have tops that gently hug the leg:gently but securely. For all this freedom all we ask you to part with is 8/11. And your suspenders.


                       
                                           
                                                    IMAGE CREDIT
     Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art, September 1968.

Win A Buck A Breck - Illustration by John Alcorn 1970

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A beautiful double-page illustrated advert measuring 20¹⁄₄" x 13¹⁄₈" originally published in SEVENTEEN magazine in 1970. The illustration is signed by the artist, but unfortunately I can't decipher the signature. (See final photograph.) UPDATE 25/2/2014: The mystery regarding the signature has now been solved, illustration by John Alcorn.


                                                          WIN A BUCK A BRECK

If you can count every Breck on these pages, you can win a dollar a Breck, plus $10,000. We Want you to remember the Breck name. Not just for our shampoo, but for as many other Breck hair-care products as well. So to get you to remember our name, we invite you to play our name-counting game. The more accurately you can count, the more money you can win! First prize...$10,000 plus $1 for every Breck you count correctly, 10 second prizes of $1,000 each, 50 third prizes of $100 each, 500 fourth prizes of a General Electric Hairsetter.
















 Artist's Signature.


                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
               All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from SEVENTEEN magazine, April 1970. 

She's a Rainbow 1971

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                                                                 IMAGE CREDITS
               Image scanned by Sweet Jane from GEBRAUCHSGRAPHIK International Advertising Art 8/1971.

Odd Underwear 1967

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What the eye doesn't see the heart doesn't grieve over. But with so much of our underwear showing through the cut-out shapes and rave designs of today's fashions, the '67 rave girl has to plan her undies with care. Here's a rave selection off odd undies just right to wear under some of '67's odd fashions!





















                                                               IMAGE CREDITS

              All  images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine April 1967, artist uncredited.

Paper Dresses to GoGo 1967

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It's like getting a whole new personality. First, use Breck's exciting new Go Go Light to take your hair a full step lighter without strong bleaching. Then step out as a glamourous "paper doll" in this season's craziest fashion:paper dresses. It's easy. It's fun. Just get Go Go Light and a paper dress. You may even catch a paper tiger.





                                                               IMAGE CREDITS
                    Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from SEVENTEEN magazine July 1967.


The Men Behind The Poster Boom 1968

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A single poster shop in London sold 300,000 posters last year: that's over 1,000 a day. Posters are notices, advertisements, propaganda, pretty pictures. They reflect the fashion in graphics and in ideals of the times: "Beat the breathalyser, smoke pot" hangs beside Beardsley's pornographic illustrations of Lysistrata in one book shop, while all over the poster market, Vietnam, Che Guevara, gangsters and the 1890s lay their claim to popular liberal opinion. Imported American and Polish posters advertising anything from bread to circuses have a wide appeal, and coffee-bars and offices leave their "psychedelic" posters up long after the occasion they advertise has passed. Some cinemas in Ireland still write their posters by hand, but in England and America subtle and skillful printing methods are used and experiments made with inks and paints.

"PSYCHEDELIC" poster artists Nigel Waymouth, Mike McInnerney, David Vaughan, Mick English and Jon Goodchild.

There are pundits, popularisers and painters already in the poster field; several shops deal in nothing else, and several producing and distributing companies have been set up. One shop - Gear of Carnaby Street has been selling poster reproductions of Victorian advertisements for averting piles or developing the bust for three years now. Two of the directors Ralph Bowmaker (in jack boots) and Tom Salter (in heavy leather) both anticipated and helped to shape the present boom in posters, and, firmly rooted in commercialism, they have little scruple about the public's taste. Though impressed when they sell a Christopher Logue poster poem to 30,000 people at 5s each, they are quite reasonably pleased that the Carnaby sign has sold half a million copies.


GEAR of Carnaby St. have been printing posters since 1965. Three of the directors: Ralph Bowmaker, Tom Salter (wearing a suit from Blades),  and Ian Grey.
                      


They admit they're "selling in a very pop way", and work on the funny smut. "You can see people in the shop reading Logue's Why I Vote Labour. When they get to 'I vote Labour because if I do not my balls will drop off', you can see them pick it up and buy it. It's always like that." Ralph Bowmaker, trained in advertising, believes that most of the selling power of a poster lies in it's colour, but Tom Salter thinks people buy for the content, encouraged by the colour. "You must have a bit of sex and a bit of war. Funnily enough when we did a poster saying 'Sex War Sex Cars Sex' we thought we had the formula right down to size, but it didn't sell. The most vivid imagination behind the posters sold by Gear is Christopher Logue's. "I've always been very visual. I think if I could live my life over again I'd be a painter. Of course one always says that but I do feel it. I get on better with painters than with literary people." Logue has translated some of Homer, written several books of poetry, an ironical ABC, and appeared on television as  necrophiliac Swinburne in in Ken Russell's film of Dante Gabriel Rossetti. "Sometimes a poster poem comes straight away, like Why I Vote Labour. Some magazine in America wrote to me and said they were sure I would be voting Labour at the next election and please would I write and tell them why. I started writing all those dreary things about: I believe that if there is a form of socialism possible in this country...." but then I couldn't go on, so I wrote the first thing that came into my head. And they printed it! After that I turned it into a poster." Logue is now a partner in Stone's Posters, called after Bernard Stone, his producer. He can make £200 to £300 on a poster: not much, but then he enjoys doing them. They are after all a perfect medium for the iconoclasm that delights him. Logue, has contrived, as subtly as can be, to keep a a tough gutter language, and make it a form of  eye catching literature.



                               CHRISTOPHER LOGUE writes and designs his own poster-poems.



Often the psychedelic poster, is a non-poster, in that it doesn't advertise anything specific, and if it does it's message outlives the occasion it is advertising. More often than not, it is a reflection of the designers's personal interests and fantasies, the voice of his ideals, wishes, peaceable rebellion. Among all the designers who traffic in dream worlds, Mick English and Nigel Waymouth, both in their twenties, stand out. They work together and call themselves "Hapshash and the Coloured Coat", an innacurate reference to a god they found in the Egyptian Book of the Dead. They started doing posters for the now defunct club UFO and mostly now advertise pop groups. Their posters marry Hindu symbolism with art nouveau flourishes and with cunningly disguised erotica-butterflies on closer examination turn out to be genitals. The colours are delicate golds and silvers, or blazes of violent fluorescent paint. Their aim is total sensation, the total environment, with every sense engaged. Posters are only "a stepping stone towards mass visual awareness," says Nigel Waymouth. "The only intellectual thing about this is to try to get visual and consciously aesthetic values established in the street, yto take it one stage further than TV, cinema and advertisements." Together, therefore they are embarking on a "total" programme. They design record sleeves, they've equipped a dark-room so that they can use photography in their designs, and they've cut a record themselves, called Following a fantasy or Nothing suceeds like sex.



American folk singer Bob Dylan, the greatest cult figure of the Underground, inspires many posters. One of the most impressive works of the ephemeral poster scene is this version of Dylan by Martin Sharp, who designs for Oz magazine.



Impetus for the psychedelic poster came not only from the American underground, but also from Australia. Oz, a monthly satirical magazine, moved to London from Sydney in January 1967. Since then it has issued posters inserted into it's pages, printed fold-out covers as posters, and even printed a whole issue on the back of a poster. The subject matter has ranged from a caricatured Wilson calendar to love-children offering their flowers to Tantric lovers in position 70. " We got lots of letters saying it was impossible". Martin Sharp, 26 , brought up in Sydney, used to design for Oz. Now he works for it only when he feels like it, but the rarer strokes of the magazine are still usually his. He dreamed up the issue that was printed on the back of a poster, bearing the legend "Plant a Flower Child", but he also freelances as a poster-designer. His designs are crowded, detailed and witty. In the collage poster for the legislation of Marijuana Rally in Hyde Park last year, he cut out Red Indians from a 19th Century traveller's book of tales, and many innocent figures can be seen to be smoking intriguing and questionable substances. For him the attraction of posters lies in their cheapness and availability. " I think galleries are dying because they charge so much. Art is a very big business now, and people don't buy for pleasure but for investment." Martin Sharp's Bob Dylan fantasy is one of the best-selling posters in London., having topped the 10,000 mark. "That should bring in £400 to £400 in royalties, but of course I haven't seen any of it yet. It's much more than I ever got for a painting." 


"HANGUP", a poster shop which was opened in Islington last october by Bob Borzello (left), now sells up to 2,000 posters a week.



Shops specialising in selling posters are also opening all over the country. Managers such as Bob Borzello, 31, from Chigago who runs Hangup, and Mike Phillips, 24, of Forposters, are genuinely keen and enthusiastic about posters as art. As Bob Borzello says, "They're not just reproductions. This is a genuine Warhol, and this is a genuine Lichtenstein, because they did them as posters." Certainly the Tate agrees with him, for in its recent Lichtenstein exhibition, a huge poster advertising the artist's earlier show in Pasadena was hung alongside his canvases. But then posters have become a form of art afterall.





                                                             IMAGE CREDITS


All images and original excerpts scanned by Sweet Jane from The Daily Telegraph, April 10th 1968, original report  by Marina Warner. Photographs by John Marmaras.  * except for Bob Dylan poster image by Martin Sharp which was scanned from the Observer magazine, 3rd December 1967.


                                                                        LINKS


Black on the Canvas: The trailer for the forthcoming feature length documentary about the life and times of the artist David Vaughan can be found  here.

Further information about the artist Nigel Waymouth can be found on his website here.





Jardin Des Modes: Allen Jones - Illustration

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A double page fashion illustration by pop artist Allen Jones originally published in Jardin Des Modes while it was under the artistic direction of Swiss born graphic designer Jean Widmer. As editor of the magazine (1961-1970), he revolutionised the entire visual conception of the periodical in the style of the publisher Lucien Vogel, enlisting the talent of outstanding photographers such as Helmut Newton, Frank Horvat and Karen Radkai as well as artists such as Philip Castle, Milton Glaser and Allen Jones. This particular scan is from an article published in a graphic art magazine in 1971 which was about the work of Jean Widmer, so I don't have an original publishing date for the actual illustration, but i'm guessing that it may have been circa 1965/66.











                                                                 IMAGE CREDITS
  All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International Advertising Art January 1/1971


                                                                           LINKS
              Further information about the artist Allen Jones & examples of his work can be found here.
              Further information about the photographer Frank Horvat can be found on his website here.
              An interview with the artist Philip Castle can be found here.

Twiggy-Rigs are the Greatest! 1967

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                                                                   IMAGE CREDIT 
                        Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Petticoat magazine September 16th 1967.

Operation Venus 1968

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                                                            COSAK IN ACTION
Adrenalin-charged reflexes trigger muscles and sinews. Disciplined icy judgements crackle into split-second responses. Thought and action are one. This is the white hot moment: and yet you are cool. Detached. Can find the time to think about Cosak. Cosak is new; brilliant, A tour-de-force. A cloth sans peur et sans reproche pour l'homme. 


                                                                 IMAGE CREDIT 
Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from QUEEN magazine 27 March 1968. Photograph by Alec Murray.

  

The Gamine Look 1967

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Little French schoolgirls, one by one, dress in enchanting black. Colette, seated, and all of her pals are mad for matching tights. As for her dress, it's box-pleated from a low-lying waist and flies a flag of a tricolor tie: orange, black, violet! With tights, $23. Breton hats for everyone, by Adolfo 11. Zizi, standing in the center, zips herself up with a big ring pull in bright witty white. "Up" is an open-or-shut convertible colar in red. The dress, with black tights, about $23. Claudine is off in the background but easily seen - who could miss that six-foot scarf with signal stripes? White stitching sends a dress a message too. With tights, about $23. All shoes on this outing are by Nina.  Gaby, kneeling, finds flavor in the orange-pop pocket hanky of her white-stitched dress. With skinny tights-but of course!  about $23. All dresses are of smooth Heller jersey, wool knit in America. By A'n' R jr.



Madeline, above, has a starchy white linen collar and mini-cuffs, plus silvery metal reflectors and streaks of red piping. Lebanon wool jersey. Mindy Malone, about $30. Red stockings by Bewitching.


                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from SEVENTEEN magazine September 1967. Photographs by Joseph Santoro.


Biba: London's Mini Mecca 1967

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If you're between 13 and 27, are as thin as a Twiggy or as tall as a Vanessa Redgrave, have a Mia hairdo or wear it straight and long, and require a bare minimum of underwear, then Biba (pronounced Bee-baa) on Kensington Church Street in London is your boutique. Biba specializes in skintight, long-sleeved mini-minis, often with flouncy big collars and cuffs. Dresses run from $7.70 to $ 9.80 and coats cost up to $19.60, so you go to Biba because the price is right. You go there also because everybody else your size and age is there (especially on saturday, when a traffic director is all that's missing). And you go because you know that what you buy will be what's being worn - for at least the next week or so.


Through these doors swing the hippest girls in London - 3,000 a week. Many buy a dress every payday, throw it away after a month because by then- "it's an antique."


From the outside, you can't resist looking in. The facade is black; swirls painted on the windows rim portholes that peer straight into the shop. It was once a grocery store, says an early settler, and "really stank of meat when we moved in." Inside, the first impression is of  a banging sound barrier, a record player that never stops. The predominant color is burgundy - giant gold arabesques on burgundy wallpaper designed for Biba, burgundy covers for tables loaded with jewelry, burgundy dresses hung on wooden Victorian trees. Like Biba clothes, the shop - jammed with customers - is hard to squeeze into. It's even harder to push your way out of.



Unlike the rest of the shop, Ali Baba's Cave - the dressing room - is off limits to men. It's walls are shocking-pink felt; the ceiling, ArtNouveau tile. The floor is carpeted with dresses that no one has bothered to pick up.


"Mother is so sick of seeing clothes from Biba," says one customer, "that now I hide the bag when I walk in the house."



                                Felt hats and chicken feather boas ($9) are the cheapest in London.



                                 BIBA BIRDS SCRAMBLE...AND BLOKES WAIT

"You can tell American girls by those awful bloomers," says a salesgirl, aged 19. "Their sense of dress is so terrible. Why, Mia Sinatra bought the worst dress in the shop." Our informant also has few flattering words for big American shoes, streaky American hair and "coats all the way down to their knees." Although the welcome is not always sunny, foreigners press into the shop. So do the more familiar Princess Anne, Brigitte Bardot, Julie Christie, Geraldine Chaplin, Claudia Cardinale. Service is minimal, prices aren't marked. No one asks: "Can I help you, madam?" But where else says a young New Yorker, can you match those dresses, those prices-and that clutch of startling people.
                         
Biba salesgirls (age:16-20) have plenty to say about boys. From the moment the doors open (9:30 a.m) until they close (8 p.m), the place is filled with young men, mostly dressed in the male equivalent of Biba clothes. "French boys think they're IT, but we think they're effeminate," says a salesgirl. "Italian boys ask everybody in the shop for a date and usually get one. Americans are very muscular." Most men come to approve purchases by a girlfriend or to make one themselves; others, just to look. They take precious space, but they fit the scene. A female impersonator was caught recently "just looking" in the girls only dressing room. Speed rather than ceremony marked his exit.


                               Like everything else here, this large dial watch is a Biba Exclusive.



                                     With tinted glasses (sold here), it's hard to see the action

                                            
                                           The 22 salesgirls all get a free dress every week.

                   .
           "One boy found his mother a dress here," someone says. "Now she think's she's a raving mod."


                                   Shades sold here are practical, but the handbags are swingy.


                           
                                             Only an infant could sleep through this noise
     


                      Babies are regulars. So are big dogs named Orpheus, Tiberius and Benjamin.



                                                             IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LOOK magazine November 1967. Original article by Henry Ehrlich. Photographed by Douglas Kirkland.

Betsey Johnson's Dress for the Non-Seamtresses 1966

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                                                           GLUE-IT-YOURSELF

The mini-garbed blonde in this shimmering sequence of paste-it-yourself dressmaking is a New York model named Lauren Hutton who cannot sew and for once in her life can say....So what? 
Starting with a basic dress in see-through plastic shown below, Miss Hutton shows how even a girl who is all thumbs can glue together an eye-catching number. All she needs to do is apply adhesive-backed foil scallops to the vinyl surface in a layer on layer fish-scale pattern. The cut-outs come in a $5 kit sold with the unadorned $15  dress, and include not only the economy-size sequins but also, in separate kits, wiggly strips and bright stars. Dresses and cut-out kits are the whimsy of a 23-year-old designer named BetseyJohnson. In a year of work for the Paraphernalia shops, Miss Johnson has made a name for inventive ideas - none more so than this one, which permits a girl to clothe herself using the techniques of gift wrapping. The emergence of the fish-scale dress is shown in four stages from top to bottom, variety achieved by using different cut-outs is illustrated in the star and strips patches on the final dress. Shoes with clear plastic heels are by Herbert Levine ($38).







Close-up of cut-outs show scallops, curvy strips - enough in each kit to cover one dress, plus extra sheet of foil for free-form designs.


















                                                             IMAGE CREDITS


All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE International September 1966. Model Lauren Hutton. Dress by Betsey Johnson. Photographer Howell Conant.



Biba: Mini, Minier, Miniest! 1967

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                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from LOOK, November 1967. Original article by Henry Ehrlich. Photograph by Douglas Kirkland.

    

Co-ordinated Quant 1966

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For really co-ordinated chicks here's the topmost in organised planning! For the first time you can get really co-ordinated with dresses, coats, skirts 'n' shirts and handbags that have a make-up designed to match them. And for girls who want their make-up purses to carry through the really cool look there are packages galore that really swing in space-age steel and stark blacks and whites with a delicate daisy motif. So for that all-over look, mind you use MQ-MU - EvePollard.
































       

                                                             IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from PETTICOAT magazine 7th May 1966. Original article by Eve Pollard, Photographs by Nigel Redhead & Michael Legge.

Velmar Girls...Vogue 1967

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Velmar deep pile fabrics are the wild ones. You'll find the swinging purple label on all sorts of bright fashion ideas. On coats, hats, jackets and boots. Inside or out. When Velmar and Courtelle get together, you get the softest, warmest, easycare clothes that ever turned heads. Velmar turns an everyday journey into a whistle stop tour. Try it.


                                                                   IMAGE CREDIT

                                    Image scanned by Sweet Jane from VOGUE September 15 1967.

The Campbell Hang-Up Poster: John Alcorn 1968

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                                   INTRODUCING THE CAMPBELL HANG-UP

A wild, wacky way to have your soup and get a way-out poster, too! Turn your wall souper-delic! This poster's a "biggy" - 2 feet by 3 feet. Get it by sending 3 different labels from either Campbell's Tomato, Vegetable Beef, Chicken Vegetable, Chicken Gumbo, Chilli Beef or Beef Noodle Soup, and 50¢ with the coupon below. The Campbell Hang-Up..it'll make Campbell kids everywhere say...M'm! M'm! Groovy!


                                                                   Image Credit
       Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE, December 6, 1968. Illustration by John Alcorn.
                     


Get Out Of Town - Fast! 1966

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So the petrol war is hotting up? Get on the winning side, fast. Ride Regent - the lively one that's waking up Petrolsville.



                                                               IMAGE CREDIT
                    Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from the Observer magazine, May 1966.

Bedsitter Girl - Jane Asher in Nova 1966

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I'm sure that many of you are already quite familiar with this photograph of Jane Asher, it has been reproduced several times in various fashion books over the years, but was originally published in an article called The Time The Place The Dress and The Food by Molly Parkin for Nova in 1966, printed poster-sized over a double-page layout, measuring 51.5 cm x 34cm for full visual impact! Molly commissioned Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell to design a dress especially for the feature, she specifically wanted something which represented not only the throwaway, transient nature of the current youthful attitude towards fashion trends but also something with enough decorative value to end up on the wall in a bedsitter as pop paraphernalia after it had been worn at the weekend rather than in the bin!  So what better candidate for potential 'wall art' than a printed paper dress!  Celia painted her initial ideas in gouache, inspired by the work of Paul Poiret and illustrations from La Gazzete du Bon Ton, the finished designs were then printed onto a suitable Johnson & Johnson manufactured paper by the company of ZikaAscher, and the dresses made to order for the sum of 17s 6d each. I love the fact that Celia also took it upon herself to paint the vinyl floor tiles in the mock-up bedsit, mirroring the design detail from the border of the garment to complete the overall look of the set and that Molly (a woman after my own heart) attributed just about every single item on display to it's source, from the Biba beads to the Woolworth lollipops and sticks of rock!

On the floor: Jane Asher in a dress designed by Ossie Clark made of printed paper fabric designed by Celia Birtwell; made to order in small, medium and large sizes, approximately 17s 6d. Bangle at woolworths, 2s 9d. Vinyl floor tiles painted by Celia Birtwell. Lilac patent shoe by Russell & Bromley, 7½ gns. Amber patent shoe by Elliot, 8 gns. Coloured cigarette by Sobraine, 7s 2d for twenty. Coloured crepe stockings by Russell & Bromley, 6s 11d. Pop tin tray by Goods & Chattels. 9s 6d.




                                     Close-up of the design detail from the border of the dress. 





Above: One of Celia's initial designs for the paper dress rendered in gouache, inspired by the work produced at the Martine School of Decorative Arts in Paris. The school was set up by designer Paul Poiret in 1911 at 'La Maison Poiret' in an endeavor to realise his dream of creating a decorative arts movement in France which would be on par with the new developments in the arts taking place in Vienna and Germany at this time. The students consisted of young working class girls between the ages of 12-15 years old, Poiret encouraged them to work freely from nature, organising trips to the countryside and conservatories whenever possible, but apart from this input they were otherwise without artistic supervision. His role was merely to stimulate their artistic taste without influencing or criticising them in order to maintain the purity of the original source of inspiration in their work. He would then select a range from the finished designs which were suitable for reproduction and have them applied to fabrics, wallpapers, carpets, cushions and ceramics. The work received an excellent response amongst art circles and the public alike, and following an exhibition at the Salon d'Automne in 1912 the demand was such that Poiret opened a retail outlet called 'Atelier Martine' on Rue du Faubourg St Honoré. With a very favourable review in Vogue, the Martines went from strength to strength, also using their designs to create magnificent large scale murals, transforming hotels, shops, offices, private houses and also the studio of dancer Isadora Duncan into exotic, oriental palaces in the process. An international reputation was quickly established, however, the gathering momentum of the Martines success was  stopped in it's tracks by the outbreak of WW1 in 1914. The school closed for the duration of the war, and although Poiret tried several times to re-establish his career and the Martine style, most notably in the mid 1920s at the International Art Deco Fair, both failed to regain the former popularity of their glory days.






Three designs for round carpets, typical of the Martine style, from the workbooks of the School of Decorative Arts.                               




The Table: green paper drum table by Hull Traders Ltd, £3 13s. On the table: Large glass jar, £2, full of Smarties, Liquorice Allsorts and Barratt's assorted sweets; glass-topped storage jar, 6s 6d, containing dolls' eyes from Pedigree Dolls; spice jars, 2s 9d; glass dish, 7s 6d a pair, contain bath oils at Boots, 6s 6d. All the glassware from The Scientific Glassblowing Co Ltd. Hexagonal coloured boxes by Goods & Chattels, £1 17s 6d a set.



On the wall: wooden beads at Biba's, 11s. Striped shoes at Fifth Avenue, £3 19s 11d. Red and green shoe by Walter Steiger for Bally, 9½ gns. Bead bracelet at Biba's, 5s 6d. Dress designed by Ossie Clark of printed paper fabric designed by Celia Birtwell, made to order, 17s 6d. Plastic earrings by Paco Rabanne, £1 10s. Bangle at Woolworth, 2s 9d. Pink patent shoe by Russell & Bromley, £3 19s 11d. Woolworth lollipops. Paper roses from Portobello Road market. Dried flowers at Natural Fern Display Ltd, from 3s 6d each. Large wooden beads at Biba's, £1 2s 6d. Pearly Queen dress from Hector Binney stall, Bermondsey market.



The Bed: emerald green wooden bed by Gary Griffiths at Vasa, approximately £30. Green sheets at John Lewis, £5 19s 6d a set. Orange and red shoe by Walter Steiger at Bally, 9½ gns. Leather and suede shoe by Salvatore Ferragamo, 14 gns. Woolworth's rock, 1s a stick.



                                                           IMAGE CREDITS

All images & original Text scanned by Sweet Jane from an original article by Molly Parkin for NOVA, September 1966.  Model; Jane Asher, Photographs by Duffy. Celia Birtwell design in gouache scanned from Celia Birtwell by Celia Birtwell  *Close-up of border design detail on printed dress courtesy of the V&A collection. Carpet designs from the Martine School of Decorative Arts scanned from A Fashion For Extravagance by Sara Bowman


                                                                         LINKS

                                                  Visit the Celia Birtwell website here.

                                        Listen to Molly Parkin on Desert Island Discs here.
                                       
                                     Watch Great Lives-The Molly Parkin Documentary here.

                                       Read about the life and times of of Zika Ascher here.
  
                                    View an issue of La Gazette du Bon Ton from 1912 here.

                   Read about the career of designer Paul Poiret  & view examples of his work here.

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